Clutch Fluid Change

How am I suppose to know when to change the clutch fluid? Waiting until the clutch is constantly slipping and the fuel economy has nearly cut in half is probably not the best way. Could have been a more serious issue, but replacing the fluid seemed like the easiest thing to try before ordering new clutch plates.

As always, what should be a simple and routine process turned into an exhausting process. The previous mechanic(?) lost one of the bolts to the cover, and decided to replace it with a screw with a different threading and different length.

Way to ruin things for me bro. And, of course, the other side was over-tightened and/or rusted in place so when I tried to remove it the best I could do was strip the head. With no drill available, I tried to JB Weld a nut to the top so I could ratchet it out. Fail. Had to file that junk off, and chip it out of the top. Ready to simply order a new master cylinder I hammered a Robinson screwdriver into the top to get enough grip.

Replacement bolts for these (OEM 98706-04012) are.... M4-.7x8 metric Phillips bolts.

Of course, the fluid was super dirty. there was a layer of soot covering the bottom. I actually soaked it all up and cleaned with a paper towel before starting the prescribed process of bleeding the clutch fluid.

Which should look something like the following. A (fortunately) sized clear plastic tubing that fits the slave cylinder. It needs to be clear so you can watch for air bubbles, and long enough to loop above the nozzle to prevent air from travelling back inside. Ideally a syringe can be used to extract all the old fluid, rather than pumping the clutch lever while modulating the flow by opening and closing the nozzle.

The end result. Clutch lever has it's spring back, and no more dropping into neutral while riding. Proper replacement bolts mean no leaking master cylinder, and trouble free access in the future. Given the condition of the clutch fluid I should also replace the brake fluid next.