Exhaust System

I knew it before I even bought it, but the underside of the exhaust system was very rusty. I just didn't think there were any holes yet. Removing a 4-2 is not a one person job! The width of the center stand is actually WIDER than the space between the left and right exhaust. Only angling the entire exhaust can you BARELY free it from the stand, and even after that there is a shuffling game to get it out from under both of the legs of the stand.

Once free I tried the basement scientist method to remove the rust: Soaking rags in cola and wrapping the pipes in the phosphoric acid saturated cloth overnight. Sandpaper was not very effective prior to the cola, and even in the morning I tried using some vinegar (acetic acid) with copper wool (less abrasive than steel wool) to remove a bit more. Here are the results:

a moderate improvement, yes. Cost/time effective, probably not. I also discovered a small (~2cm long) hole near the end of one of the header pipes. Even after cleaning, I cannot separate one side from the other, and replacing any part is a few bills. Patched it with an exhaust band clamp for now as I save up for a 4-1.

I forgot to also mention that once I started taking the exhaust off, I had to finish since I broke a header bold clean off with the remainder stuck to header clamp (?) and inside the case. Honestly thought I'd break the whole thing hammering and prying the clamp off the rusted bolt. After getting that out I went ahead and replaced them all with a hex head flange bolt. The ones that come stock are actually 2 piece, so often I would only remove the head off the bolt and have no way to grip the stem. 

All I want to know is: Who designed these things, and how did they manage to put them together in the first place??

Clutch Fluid Change

How am I suppose to know when to change the clutch fluid? Waiting until the clutch is constantly slipping and the fuel economy has nearly cut in half is probably not the best way. Could have been a more serious issue, but replacing the fluid seemed like the easiest thing to try before ordering new clutch plates.

As always, what should be a simple and routine process turned into an exhausting process. The previous mechanic(?) lost one of the bolts to the cover, and decided to replace it with a screw with a different threading and different length.

Way to ruin things for me bro. And, of course, the other side was over-tightened and/or rusted in place so when I tried to remove it the best I could do was strip the head. With no drill available, I tried to JB Weld a nut to the top so I could ratchet it out. Fail. Had to file that junk off, and chip it out of the top. Ready to simply order a new master cylinder I hammered a Robinson screwdriver into the top to get enough grip.

Replacement bolts for these (OEM 98706-04012) are.... M4-.7x8 metric Phillips bolts.

Of course, the fluid was super dirty. there was a layer of soot covering the bottom. I actually soaked it all up and cleaned with a paper towel before starting the prescribed process of bleeding the clutch fluid.

Which should look something like the following. A (fortunately) sized clear plastic tubing that fits the slave cylinder. It needs to be clear so you can watch for air bubbles, and long enough to loop above the nozzle to prevent air from travelling back inside. Ideally a syringe can be used to extract all the old fluid, rather than pumping the clutch lever while modulating the flow by opening and closing the nozzle.

The end result. Clutch lever has it's spring back, and no more dropping into neutral while riding. Proper replacement bolts mean no leaking master cylinder, and trouble free access in the future. Given the condition of the clutch fluid I should also replace the brake fluid next.

Why so difficult??

So I read that part of regular motorcycle maintenance is taking care of the drive chain. Although it is possible to clean the chain without removing it. I wanted to do a proper cleaning by soaking the chain in kerosene before re-lubricating. Unfortunately, these bikes are suppose to have a continuous chain (no master link) and require the entire rear swing arm to be removed first. I'm not going to pretend to be mechanically inclined, I tried anyway. 

I laid out a sheet of plastic and placed all the screws with the parts as I removed them, and placed them relative to where they were removed from. At this point I was very concerned I'd never be able to put it back together again.

Thankfully I didn't remove the clutch slave cylinder when removing the cover, but was sorely disappointed at the environment of the drive gear.

The first image is after I had spent time scooping out solidified grease and grit with my finger. I think this drive sprocket is stock and will need to be replaced in the future as well. For the moment it only can be cleaned. 

Since I'm more interested in economy than accel, I hoped to do something like a -1/+2 sprocket replacement anyway. From what I understand 16 teeth in the front and 45 in the back is stock. This bikes' current configuration is 16 and 43, but I think I can squeeze a bit more mechanical advantage without bogging it down. 

Although it took a good part of the afternoon I did get everything back together, and been riding since without it falling apart. 

Problems Already

Just to disclose some of the initial problems I had with my motorcycle.

1. Fuel Light
I was warned that the reserve fuel switch didn't work. Whether this meant it drained the tank dry or not was yet to be discovered. Which I found out within the first week the hard way, involving a several kilometer walk, each way, to the nearest gas station. After the second time I learned to use the trip meter, and topped up after every 100-150km. (NEVER AGAIN)

Problems Part II

2. Thermostat

I had my bike safetied at Cycle Werx in Toronto. They warned me that my thermostat was "all over the place" but there was no overheating issues. No problems? then I didn't care. At least until I noticed a green residue starting to coat my cylinder head. I ignored it for the longest time, assuming it was just some kind of oxidation. At least until I noticed the puddle I was leaving on the ground wherever I went. Sure enough it was leaking coolant, and best I can tell from the thermostat housing. Of course if there isn't a proper seal the leaking fluid changes the pressure in there, and ultimately the temperature measured. 

By the time I check the reserve coolant tank it is completely empty, and there is barely any coolant in the rad. A quick replacement outside a Walmart will have to be sufficient until I can replace the o-ring which should be sealing in the thermo.

Intro

So I couldn't put it off any more. Not that I was trying to delay, but couldn't convince others to take the plunge with me. Got my M1 license, completed my safety course, and set out to buy my first motorcycle. Nearly settled on a Suzuki GS500, a very common and easy bike to ride. BUT. After the owner let me take his Yamaha Fazer out for a ride I couldn't deny the appeal. My experience had only been on 250cc bikes with RTI and riding a 700cc was far above my skill level. A few months later, I can safely say I am comfortable with my machine.

I was advised by my father NOT to get this bike because of it's age (1987) and mileage (~60 000km). Now I understand how easily old bikes require constant attention, and how difficult it is to find the most frequently changed parts on a rare bike like this.

Through this blog I hope to track the maintenance, performance, and improvement of this motorcycle under my ownership. Given the little technical information available, it is my intention to identify compatible replacement parts. Saving time for others who don't want to order things as simple as OEM screws when they've lost or broken all the stock pieces. THIS is my experience.